Here are the parts to weld on to the front axle.

And if I'm welding near the inner axle seals, I might as well replace them post-weld. And if I'm pulling the differential to replace the seals, I might as well slip in a Truetrac Limit Slip.

It's been on my build list to go with an e-locker up front, but prices have gone up (like everything else). I'm also constantly evaluating the build and our needs and have determined that we simply don't need a full locker up front for this particular vehicle and our wheeling style. So, LSD it is.

After removing the axle and putting it on the workbench, I had a hard time getting the track bar off so I let it be. As it turned out, it was quite helpful to use in different positions to keep the axle balanced where I needed it for welding. I opted for the Artec Industries truss as its design seemed like the best and it also allowed me to reuse the factory passenger UCA mount (cut to length) so I can use OEM rubber bushings for a smoother ride.

The differential housing was heated to ~400F, the truss welded on, and now the housing is wrapped to help it cool down slowly and evenly to prevent cracks.

The entire axle housing got painted black.

Too help prevent the inner-C from bending under high load, some gussets were welded on, too. I liked the design of the Barnes 4WD inner-C gussets better than any of the others as they don't create any clearance problems.

The Teraflex heavy duty ball joints were selected as the lower joints allow you to set the preload. This means that anytime they start getting loose they can be tightened up. They also come with a lifetime warranty so I should never have to buy ball joints again.

With these axle-strengthening products installed, my worries of bending the axle housing with my heavy load on trails should now be at bay.